NUTMEG AND MACE

With the weather turning cooler and Autumnal favorites like apples, pears, carrots and the dazzling array of squash filling up the farmer’s markets I find myself once again pulling down nutmegs, mace, cinnamon and clove from my spice shelf to season up my favorite dishes and beverages.

Today I want focus on nutmeg and mace; sister spices with a rich culinary history. Nutmeg is actually the kernel of the peach-or-apricot-esque fruit of the Myristica fragrans, an evergreen tree native to the remote Spice Islands – specifically, at least originally, the seven Banda islands in the Moluccan Sea – in what is now Indonesia. Mace is the red, lacy membrane that surrounds the nutmeg seeds and is slightly more coveted and pricy. Historical data shows that a pound of mace was worth three sheep or half a cow, whereas nutmegs were worth 2 sheep at best.*

During the 15^th Century popularity of the spice lead to an expedition sent by Commander Albuquerque of the Portuguese fleet and headed by Francisco Serrao, who was successful in finding the fabled islands, which in turn led to the Portuguese controlling the Spice Islands until the early 17^th Century when they were overthrown by the Dutch.  Known for their monopolistic tendencies the Dutch destroyed the trees on all of the islands except for Banda and Ambon where their own plantations were. The end of the 18^th Century saw brief control by the British and then the region was taken over by the French. Over time, Grenada became a valued source for cultivated nutmeg trees and is now the second largest exporter in the world, next to Indonesia.

Over the centuries the taste for, and usage of, nutmeg and mace have waxed and waned; however the sister spices have enjoyed a resurgence with the onset of food television networks. Nutmeg is sweet in flavor with a warm, slightly spicy undertone that lends itself well to milky dishes and drinks and is often used to flavor apple or pear pies along with cinnamon. Mixed with rose water it makes a delightful flavoring for cookies and delicate desserts. Mace is a good deal more pungent than its counterpart and is the traditional spice for pound cake, as well as being a wonderful addition to cherries, chocolate and whipped cream.

Don’t let these culinary gems fool you, however, for they are versatile enough to add pizzazz to your favorite savory dishes as well. Nutmeg is a tasty addition to many vegetables, such as green beans and spinach and is a must for Scandinavian meatballs or German potato dumplings. Mace enhances the flavor of fish and seafood sauces, as well as many a chicken dish. Keep in mind both spices pack a potent punch so it’s advisable, as with any herb or spice, to start with a pinch or a dash and then add more as desired.

While you can buy nutmeg already ground its advisable, instead to buy them whole and invest in a micro plane, which is a wonderful tool to have on hand anyway. If you prefer you can also buy nutmeg graters –vintage or new – which have become something of culinary collectable over the years. Mace is always sold ground. Store in air-tight jars in a dark cool spot – nutmegs will last up to five years, however mace is more fragile and while it will not ‘go bad’ it will start to lose flavor after 1 -2 years.

Quick and Tasty Mashed Trio

1 pound each of Yukon gold potatoes, carrots and turnips, peeled and cut into 1 inch chunks

½ – ¾ cup chicken stock – warmed

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

Cracked black pepper and Kosher salt to taste

Add vegetable to a large stock pot and add enough water to cover along with a pinch of salt.

Bring to a boil

Boil until veggies are just fork tender – cooking time will vary here

DRAIN IMMEDIATELY – return to stock pot and put back on still warm (but turned off) burner

Remove bay leaf

Add butter, nutmeg and ½ cup of stock and let stand about five minutes (the heat from burner/vegetables will melt the butter while letting the potatoes cool slightly. Using a potato masher mash the vegetables until they are the way you like them, or let them cool a bit longer and use an electric mixer if you prefer a smoother mash. If more liquid is needed use the remaining ¼ cup of stock. Season to taste with black pepper and salt as desired.

*The Spice Cookbook by Avanelle Day and Lillie Stuckey